Kunyang Chhish
1971

Kunyang Chhish 1971

"For me, this is the most beautiful mountain and the greatest success. Summiting Kunyang was more meaningful even than winter Everest ascent. It's an enormous mountain, you can hide entire Polish Tatra mountains in one Kunyang Chhish. "

The expedition's aim

Ascending the virign peak of Kunyang Chhish (7852 m above sea level), located in the Hispar Muztagh massif in Karakoram (Pakistan) was meant to be a Polish comeback after the Second World War. In 1966 French climbers wanted to organise a joint French-Polish expedition to Hindu Kush. Andrzej Zawada persuaded them to try a more ambitious climb. Unfortunately, after everything had been established, the French withdrew. Poles received a permit to ascend Kunyang Chhish - they were to attempt climbing the third out of the highest, unclimbed mountains. Kunyang had already defeated two expeditions - British-Pakistani (1962) and Japanese (1965). Andrzej Zawada chose a different route to the summit than the one taken by the Japanese - through southeastern wall, so-called Ice Cake. The route is much shorter, but also much more difficult. It leads through technically difficult, exposed terrain, which requires anchoring kilometers of fixed rope. Unfortunately, although the expedition was successful, it wasn't lucky. Jan Franczuk, the youngest member of the expedition, died in an ice crevasse. The team dedicated to him a documentary about the expedition (“Khiangyang Kish znaczy Góra Narożna” - "Kunyang Chhish, the Corner Mountain"). In 1973, Wojciech Kurtyka named the new route on the north wall of Aiguille du Dru “Voie Petit Jean” - in Jan Franczuk's honour.

Facts

Official name of the expedition:
Poland Himalaya Karakorum 1971

Expedition's status: national expedition

Route: first ascent,
southeastern wall through Ice Cake

Members: 13

Base established: 2 July 1971

Summit reached: 26 August 1971

Members of the expedition

Mountaineers

Andrzej Zawada – leader (43 yrs., Warsaw Mountaineering Club (Klub Wysokogórski; KW))

Eugeniusz Chrobak (32 yrs., KW Cracow)

Krzysztof Cielecki (36 yrs., KW Warsaw)

Jan Franczuk (26 yrs., KW Wrocław)

Andrzej Zygmunt Heinrich (34 yrs., KW Cracow)

Bogdan Jankowski (33 yrs., KW Wrocław)

Andrzej Kuś (31 yrs., KW Warsaw)

Jerzy Michalski (40 yrs., KW Łódź)

Jacek Poręba (32 yrs., KW Cracow)

Ryszard Szafirski - doctor (34 yrs., KW Zakopane)

Jan Stryczyński (40 yrs., KW Poznań)

Stanisław Zierhoffer - doctor, deputy leder (46 yrs., KW Poznań)

Filming

Andrzej A. Galiński (34 yrs.)

The expedition's timeline

Czwórka ze szczytu, od lewej Szafirski, Stryczyński, Zawada, Heinrich (fot. Archiwum Fundacji Andrzeja Zawady).

1966

April

1969

October 8

1971

May 15 -
June 8

May 28 -
June 22

June 22

June 24

June 26-29, 4410 m - based on reconnaisance Pumarikish Glacier was deemed optimal for setting up Base Camp and ascent. The chosen route was much shorter than the one used by the failed Japanese expedition.

July 6

July 7-11

July 12-23

July 24, 6500 m - Zyga Heinrich and Ryszard Szafirski set up CII on the peak of Ice Cake, place of the previous Japanese CVI (!)

July 24

July 25-27

July 28 - tragic death of Jan J. Franczuk near CIII. The team votes to continue the expedition, although not everyone is in favour.

July 28

July 29-31

August 6

August 7-8

August 13

August 13-21, 4410 m - expedition waits out extremely difficult weather conditions in the base.

August 25

August 26, 7852 m - A. Zawada, Z. Heinrich, J. Stryczyński and R. Szafirski summit Kunyang Chhish at 7:45 am.

August 26

August 28

September 2-12

September 17

September 20

September 22 -
October 16

November 11

1972

January 7

1973

The expedition's result

There are two. Firstly, Poles have proven that although they had little experience outside Afgan Hindu Kush, they are excellent in logistically difficult mountaineering expeditions in remote and little known mountain regions. This expedition was a textbook example of exploration. Secondly, psychological impact. By ascending virgin seven-thousander - the highest unclimbed one - Polish climbers gained courage and passion. They needed them to develop Polish mountaineering in one of the three directions: ascending highest virgin peaks - seven- and eight-thousanders. The two other directions were: ascending eight-thousanders through new routes (there is a Polish route on each of them) and winter ascents. During Kunyang Chhish  expedition Andrzej Zawada has proven that he is a good and effective leader for national expeditions.

The second summiting of Kunyang Chhish took place 17 years later.

Polish ascend on Kunyang Chhish marked the rebirth of Polish mountaineering after the Second World War.