The first winter climb
of Tatra main ridge 1959

The first winter climb of Tatra main ridge 1959

Climbing Tatra main ridge is one of the most attractive sport challenges: it poses difficulties, lets climbers prove their stamina and psychological resistance. It's a perfect training, both sport- and logistics-wise, before expeditions in the highest mountains.

The expedition's aim

Climbing the entire Tatra ridge during winter was in the 1950s the Holy Grail for Polish and Slovakian mountaineers. The challenge was twofold - both the climbing and logistics (sleeping arrangements and food supplies) posed difficulties. Great difficulties, as previous failed and even tragic attempts show. The first successful summer climb took place in 1955, and winter attempts (for example 1956 and 1958) ended with the deaths of climbers. The situation was dire, so in 1959 the Mountaineering Club called mountaineers to stop the attempts on the main ridge, as they were afraid there will be more tragic accidents.

The next attempt was initiated by Kazimierz W. Olech, and Andrzej Zawada joined the group of mountaineers from Warsaw. Zawada created the expedition's strategy - the climbers were not to descend to the valleys for the night, as during this part of the climb most of the tragic accidents happened. The decision not to have additional support teams was also made. Placement of food supplies and the route were established: 75 km, 16 days of climbing (1 day in Belianske Tatras, 11 days in High Tatras and 4 days in Western Tatras). Unfortunately, due to difficult weather the climb took 3 days longer.

Facts

Official name of the expedition:
The first winter climb of Tatra main ridge

Expedition's status:
expedition of Warsaw Mountaineering Club

Route: strictly through the ridge: 75 km,
100 peaks, 25,000 m of highlands

Members: 6

Base established: 27 March 1959

Summit reached: 14 April 1959

Members of the expedition

Mountaineers

Andrzej Zawada - leader (31 yrs.)

Jerzy Krajski (30 yrs.)

Czesław Mrowiec (34 yrs.)

Kazimierz W. Olech (31 yrs.)

Andrzej Sobolewski (26 yrs.)

Szymon Wdowiak (25 yrs.)

The expedition's timeline

Andrzej Zawada w Tatrach (fot. Fundacja Himalaizmu Polskiego im. Andrzeja Zawady).

1959

March 25-26

March 25-26 - six food supply deposits set up.

March 27

March 28

March 29

March 30

March 31

April 1, day 6 - the summit of Gerlach, highest mountain in Tatras, reached.

April 1

April 2

April 3

April 4

April 5

April 6

April 7

April 8

April 9, dy 14 - waiting out difficult conditions below Banista Przełączka.

April 9

April 10

April 11

April 12

April 13, day 18 - food runs out.

April 13

April 14

The expedition's result

For Polish mountaineering, climbing the Tatra main ridge was the culmination of the first pre-war attempts, as well as the milestone leading to winter exploration of the Alps and later highest mountains. For Andrzej Zawada it was a successful comeback to the first league of Polish mountaineers - scientific expeditions of the second half of the 1950s put brakes on his climibing career. He could again take up next challenges, also in the Alps.

Although it was, undoubtedly, a great sport success, the members of the expediton were ostracized by the Mountaineering Club, due to its chairman's (Czesław Bajer) call not to attempt climbing the ridge. While Jan Staszel's team was awarded for their first summer climb, Zawada's team was met with an utter silence in mountaineering media.